Return to the Dark Continent

Well, we are back from the UAE and have mixed emotions for sure. Dubai and Sharjah both lived up to their reputations and disappointed a bit too. Some things we could never have anticipated, some things we had thought about and were confirmed. It also made us look at Kenya a bit differently, some things we appreciate more and some things we truly miss more. Bottom line, we are getting a wide-open look at a few different cultures, rounding our world views, dismissing some myths, and hopefully making us more tolerant.

Upon arrival to Sharjah airport, we blazed through immigration and got our bags without any problems. It was truly a nice change compared to the crap involving US and British airports. They could definitely take lessons on this. Having an American passport is an incredible help too, not requiring a Visa to enter the country…this helps all over the world. Enough employees manning the desks, tons of customer service folks available and most importantly…and this cannot be stressed enough…FREE LUGGAGE TROLLEYS!!!!! This is also available in Kenya and I cannot believe the idiots in America cannot figure this out. The time, aggravation, and efficiency of moving people from baggage, gates, etc…out the door is incredible. Instead of someone not being able to afford a cart and balancing four bags, running into folks, saying they are sorry every 10 seconds…there are free baggage trolleys provided by the airport. Enough said but not enough done…I implore US airports to adopt this incredibly easy benefit.

After getting through the airport, it was time to find our cousin who was picking us up at the airport. Holy Crap!! Mind you, I had left DFW in May before it got really hot, lived in Nairobi where the high has been 78 and lows usually in the mid 50’s… The blast-furnace that is the Arabian Desert, even at night, was initially unbearable. Daytime temperatures around 45 Celsius (113 Fahrenheit) and nighttime temps 38 C (95 F) are for desert dwellers, not normal folks…wait a minute, that’s right…I am in a desert. Maybe all the dudes wearing sheets should have tipped this off? Or maybe the fact that other than “official” parks and golf courses, there is nary a blade of grass to be seen? The heat of the day was never really bearable and nighttime was just tolerable if outside. A few of the restaurants that we ate at had outdoor seating and understandable did not open until late in the evening. For the non-acclimated, this was going to be interesting as it had been a year since I had experienced triple-digit temps.

Another thing that immediately stands out, there are freaking tons of skyscrapers! I mean really cool, tall buildings. I had no idea…it is almost like Manhattan. In the middle of the desert some Sheiks decided to build this huge empire of very tall buildings…and they are everywhere. There is nothing that reminds me of DFW rather it is what I expect from NYC or Boston or a miniature downtown Chi-town. Also, there are tons of American fast-food restaurants…all with their names spelled in Arabic but their logos are plainly visible from blocks away. We ended up eating at a Pizza Hut (our guide’s choice, not mine) upon arrival and it was great. Had not had wings in over three months and it was about time! I remember making fun of my buddy PJ in Paris when he insisted on eating at a Planet Hollywood for wings after living in Denmark for months…crap, we could be eating snails or something dude! I totally take all that back now…I understand.

The service provided, everywhere, is top notch. Everyone we encountered in service positions spoke perfect English along with at least one other Native tongue. Most of them seemed to be either Philippine or Malaysian…don’t know for sure and do not know how to tell the difference…only what I was told. One thing we did notice, you do not see many Arabs working…anywhere. I think they just sit at home and count their money?

Another thing that caught my wife and I off guard were all the prostitutes! I am not talking about a stray seen walking along a dark side street; I am talking about lines of them along specific streets and hundreds of them walking in and out of bars. This was really funky considering it is a Muslim country; one would think this kind of crap would be forbidden! I guess it is “tolerated” from what we are told. I guess the Sheik that owns Dubai is all about absolutely no reason to have folks leave the city with their money. I guess he has covered all his bases. Our cousin told us that there are bars that “specialize” in specific origins of ladies….i.e. Indians, Russians, Malaysians, Eastern Europe…even Americans. I think Dubai is basically NYC, in the desert, with 60% Indian population, the rest a mix of Arabs and White Folks…and hardly any Black Folks. The streets are dusty but in great shape, hot as Hades and a ton of stuff to do so long as it is indoors and more restaurants and hotels than I am used to seeing surrounded by really, really tall buildings.

We are now trying to figure out if the job idea in Dubai is going to work. The amount of money we could make in a short period of time might make it worth living in the desert for a year or so. If not for the big bucks, there is no way in God’s green (dusty sand) Earth I would live there. We went to the Ministry of Health and it appears that my wife can take an exam in November and then get a job about anywhere she would want to. My options are pretty good considering the amount of Engineering and Sales that are going on here. So, we are excited that we have one possibility.

Upon reflection and returning back to Nairobi…we are extremely torn. My wife and I both love Nairobi, its people and everything else about it sans the corruption and carjackings. The streets are more beautiful than one can comprehend; people are nicer than anywhere in the States, and just about every amenity one could want (except consistent electricity) is here. We had committed so much to coming to Nairobi both in time (two years in the making), effort (moving all the crap from one side of the earth to the other is a chore), and energy (having to explain over and over to family and friends why we left a million dollar house in the affluent suburb of Southlake, TX for a third-world country…sucked the life force out of us). We banked a lot on this trip and it is unfortunate that Kenya is not going to be in our immediate future as we really love it here. We were looking forward to making new friends, raising our family, and creating a new life. Instead we are packing our crap up and moving back to the States for an undetermined period of time. We shall catch a break eventually…

Peace,

Dude
FBO

Independence Day in a Foreign Land

Today is July 4, 2009 and the United States of America celebrates yet another birthday. She is a little worse for wear considering she is 233 years old. The United States I was born into is quite different than the one I left this year. It is also interesting getting foreigner’s views on the United States and because of the day, I thought I would write a little about all of the above.

Does anyone remember “Leave it to Beaver”? That is what I picture as the prototypical 1950’s American Family. There is a stay-at-home Mom, a Father that never misses breakfast or dinner, and two children that get caught up in mischief from time to time, all of which contributes to a happy and functional family. I liken that to Kenya now. The family unit is very strong here. There does not appear to be a huge problem with divorce or single-parent households. The children all seem to be very respectful of their elders and are home when the street-lights turn on. Instead of fast-food drive-thru’s, folks eat home-cooked meals. Instead of being glued to the television, folks sit and talk, do homework, and read books. And family is not just Mom/Dad, Brother/Sister but cousins, aunts, uncles, next-door neighbors, and the like. Everyone seems to work in a community to support each other. Of course, I could very well be shielded from the “dark” side, but in my interactions, all of the above appears to be true. I think the only thing I see that is similar in the States in youth is the cell phone. Passionately carried everywhere and constantly texting God knows who.

The things that make the United States great, in my opinion, are its people, ingenuity, and the 10 basic civil liberties guaranteed to everyone. Kenya has this too albeit without the Civil Liberties. They have something similar, but not quite close. An example, we were driving back from Watamu and got waved over by police twice…because they felt like it. I was stunned. The police were pulling people over looking for bribes, plain and simple. I told the driver that this would never happen in the States. The first time it happened, it would be splashed all over the news and heads would roll. He shrugged it off as normal and was not too concerned about it. Just about any time one is stopped, if one has enough cash on them, they can drive away. Every cop takes bribes here, period. It was explained to me that they have such an important job and get paid so very little that it is accepted. I sit here wondering what would happen if I got pulled over for speeding in the States and casually told the cop “…I do not want a ticket today, why don’t you just take this $20 and go on.”

The corruption goes on and up the ladder all the way to the top. Foreigners are amazed at this. Kenyans accept that corruption is a part of life. Sure, they would like to be rid of it but assume it is not practical. They compare the system to the one in the United States that is not corrupt. I laugh at this and acknowledge that they might be misled a bit. Sure, it is not out in the open in the States, but if one does not believe it exists, I have some great property in Kiberia to sell for KES 50 Million an acre. Kenyans are not aware of the corruption that exists in Western governments. They do not get the news regarding the powerful lobbyists, back-door deals for votes, massive government spending on pet projects, and HUGE travel budgets for our elected officials. Matter of fact, what Nancy Pelosi spent on her last “world trip” would fund the Kenyan Government for probably six months. The big difference here versus the States is that they try to hide it in the States, here it is a bartering system.
Freedom of the press is a big deal in both places. Although it is a joke in the States, here it is very hardcore. Folks who write the wrong stories…well they are absolutely allowed to but very well may end up dead in a ditch. In the States, the news media panders to the left for the most part and wields huge power in legislation, elections, and foreign policy. In Kenya, they are read, cause outrage, and the government continues on as usual. I guess it is the peoples knowing that true change can never occur here, and in the States a bunch of dumb-ass tree huggers believed it whole heartedly. Seems the Kenyan folks may be a bit smarter than the Americans in this respect. The press here is hard-hitting and has the people’s welfare in mind not seeming to run on a personal agenda. That is very refreshing to see that it still exists in the world.

I have written here in the past about the view of American Mzungu; have tons of money, owns everything in the world, and is a way to get ahead in life. Kenya counts on Mzungu dollars to float its economy. All the dollars that are spent every year on tourism, paying huge amounts of money to drive through the outskirts of town or fly across the country to see wild animals and also to see the coastal resorts along Kenya’s beaches, counts for a huge percentage of Kenya’s GDP. Kenyan’s are never exposed to anything other than the wealthy, top 5% of the American population (or British/Italian/German/French/Etc…) Kenyans stare in disbelief when I talk about the “other side of the tracks” in the States. Ghettos, gangs, drugs, prostitution, crime, rape…none of it are really reported here. They do not hear about the evening news in DFW that starts off every night with countless murders, arson, and various other atrocities. I am also pretty sure that Kenyans never hear of the huge middle-class of America that works hard every day, struggles to make ends meet, constantly oppressed by huge taxes paying for entitlements they will never see. Again, all they see are the rich folks that walk off the plane in their brand new “Columbia” or equivalent Safari Gear acting like the public should be beholden to them because of their status. I’m with the Kenyans, rich buttholes suck. However, I will take their money. Come to think of it, that was my business in DFW prior to coming here…I guess I am not that different after all.

I sit here on July 4th and do miss the States a bit. I miss the great medical facilities, awesome civil infrastructure (clean water, roads, telephony, electrical service, natural gas, transport systems), and a lot of the niceties I grew up accustomed to. I obviously miss my family a lot and friends too. However, in retrospect there are a lot of things, as mentioned above, that I do not miss at all. Just like Vincent said to Jules in “Pulp Fiction”…it’s the little differences.

Peace,

Dude
FBO

Three Weeks in Kenya

I sit here looking out the window at palm trees, the peaks of the Ngong Hills, flowers and birds of all kinds everywhere and am growing used to it and at the same time amazed at the differences.

The flora here is freaking incredible. Amazing flowering trees, shrubbery of all colors, trees that are nowhere in the States…what a lot of Africans take for granted stuns me. On the drive to our cottage through the streets of Karen, almost every home has a garden that would be considered “museum quality” anywhere back home. Plus, with the growing climate all year round, it provides for some interesting observations. I remember back home, working at the depot, selling tons of annuals that were to be planted temporarily for color. Take Marigolds, for example. They grow nice and pretty, and then die in the fall, and replanted again next year. Here, they are bushes that form hedges and grow/bloom all year round. I am sure it makes gardening a bit of a challenge over here as one really needs to plan ahead because once it is planted, it is there for good.

The birds here are pretty cool too. The crows that fly here have large, white breasts but all other aspects they are normal crows. I have hawks that fly round here all the time, looking for a small dinner of sorts and have been told can put chicken pieces out and they will feed in the front yard…will have to try that when I get some chicken and my camera ready. Numerous songbirds of all different colors and sizes…all are a sight to see for the first time.

In the short distance from our cottage are the Ngong Hills, made famous by Karen Blixen’s “Out of Africa” (and the movie too). The views of them are incredible as they are unlike any “hills” or “mountains” I am used to seeing. Because this area was formed by volcanic activity and the vast Rift Valley which lies Kilometers from where I sit, the landscape is unequaled anywhere else in the world. The beauty is stunning to me, but not that big a deal to the locals obviously.

Karen, where I live, is a predominately wealthy area, especially by Kenyan standards but by American standards also. It is inhabited by wealthy Kenyans and White “Expats”, it is a very rural suburban area with nice homes on huge lots, usually with a large staff to maintain the gardens, household chores, repairs, and anything else. It is an area where it is safe to walk the streets…although where I am at it is impractical as there is nothing within walking distance from me. The people are nice and always have time to stop and chat a bit. Most everyone here speaks English, albeit they seem to prefer to speak Kiswahili and mix it with English a bit.

There are a couple of shopping centers that are a 5 minute drive from here where one can buy about anything that is a necessity for living. Closer by are roadside shacks that sell the very basics, milk, bread, eggs, fruit, and vegetables. A lot of the locals utilize these shacks but I have not had the opportunity yet. Most everything that I have bought so far is from a store called “Nakumatt”, which is the Kenyan equivalent to Wal-Mart. Nakumatt sells groceries, household goods, electronics, furniture, motorcycles, hardware, tools, appliances, carpet…you name it and they have a bit of it. Some things are very inexpensive here (food), some things are normal prices here (cleaning supplies, soda, meat) and some things are very high (clothing, hangars, electronics, and fuel). One thing worth mentioning, deli lunchmeat is freaking expensive here. Priced per 100 grams (which is not very much), 300 grams will cost you KES1000 which is equivalent to $12.00USD…gotta learn the equivalants!

I have also grown fond of the coffee shops that are nearby. Dormands is one that is close by as well as one called Java House. They serve EXCELLENT coffee, something that Starbucks should look into. Kenyan coffee is regarded as some of the best in the world (we drank it in the States) and they brew mean Tea too. Most of the coffee shops have an outdoor area where folks sit under umbrella tables and enjoy the 75 degree mean temperature, nice breeze, and blazing sunshine. Most of them have internet available, which really makes for a good retreat for me. I have 3G, but it is expensive to use. I never realized how many bytes I used surfing until I paid for each one!!! A luxury I was privileged with in the States and cannot take for granted now.

Talking about the Oasis that I live in is not necessarily a true representation of Nairobi though. Karen lies on the far Southwest edge of the Nairobi area. Once you get out on one of the main roads (Either Langata Road or Ngong Road), things change quickly All of sudden there is mass-chaos. Matatus (small buses) roaring everywhere, pulling in and out of traffic regardless of who is coming or going. Masses of cars driving on roads that have no rules, potholes 10 feet in diameter and a foot deep, passing at anytime, and a communication system utilizing horns, turn-signals, and light flashes that I still do not fully understand. In the States, the car horn is an extension on ones middle finger…only used in anger or frustration. Here, it is used as a communication device. For example, multiple short blasts could mean that I am coming from behind or that I want to merge in right now. Laying on the horn means “…you stupid Matatu, I am coming and get the hell out of my way!” At night, the turn-signal is used to let people see the side of your car as the roads are extremely narrow, dark, and without any lines painted on them.

Anyhow, I digress. Outside of Karen is the true “Nairobi”. A lot of poverty being passed by quickly by the tons of rich folks in their Range Rovers, Toyota Landcruisers, Mercedes, and the like drove by wealthy Kenyans and Expats. The city is very congested and traveling about needs to be planned out carefully. Never during rush-hour and never at night are the two most important rules. For about two hours in the morning and three in the evening, it is like a very chaotic L.A. Freeway experience. Cars sit bumper to bumper, some without brakes, some driven without care, but all sitting like paperweights emitting smog out the tailpipe that would really piss off the tree-huggers in the States. The black-smoke that pours out of vehicles due to zero emissions policies makes a choking/gagging affair that burns ones throat and eyes. Night time driving is not a problem with congestion, but with safety. Carjacking is a serious issue to deal with. They are very common-place and one needs to keep safety in mind at all times. Car doors are locked (even in the daytime), if the windows are down one needs to be careful about leaving an arm out for fear of losing a watch or possibly even the arm. There are thieves roaming the streets in pairs trying to steal stuff out of your vehicle or even hubcaps while stuck in traffic is not uncommon. One lesson is to keep notice of folks walking the streets in a jacket, hat and tennis shoes. They have to be considered thieves as they can discard the coat and hat easily to change appearances and the typical Kenyan does not really wear tennis shoes other than to run. Learning the ropes about safety is paramount prior to me starting to drive never mind the silly bastards drive on the wrong side of the road.

Home safety is a major issue too. My cottage is very safe as it has a road-block with three guards at the entrance off of Bogani Road. From there, the long (quarter-mile or so) driveway has locked gates lining it. I have to pass through two locked gates to get to my front door and there is a guard on duty at these two gates. I have an ace up my sleeve in my German Shepherd Dog, Naomi. Africans are scared shitless of dogs…especially German Shepherds and other similar “trained attack” dogs. All of the staff in our compound gives our yard a wide-berth. Also, carrying Naomi with me in the car…I am told by locals that is almost a guarantee of safety. I am also virtually assured that no Kenyans would even consider entering my yard let alone my cottage…so that made the cost of transporting our animals worth every penny.

Other areas of the city are not near as safe as where I live. Folks that live in town are under constant strain of having a home invasion or having their vehicle stolen, regardless if they are currently driving it or it is sitting in their driveway. There are a lot of beautiful areas of Nairobi that would be less expensive to live in anmd have nicer, larger accommodations. However because of this safety issue, I will not consider living in those areas, just as I would not consider living in Oak Cliff, parts of Fort Worth, or any other crappy area in the States.

Getting used to the slower pace of life has not been difficult at all. If someone tells you they will be there at 2:00pm, you just allow for an hour or so. It is as simple as that. If an appointment does not work out or something goes wrong…no big deal. The hurried hassle of everything in the States is slowly melting away, which is one of the many bonuses of living here. I am actively retraining myself to relax. Sitting here in my cottage on a beautiful Sunday morning, I can sit on my front porch and gaze at natures wonders, play with my dog, type this blog and not be worried about what it is I am supposed to be doing. What happens will happen. I was supposed to have television service installed yesterday by the local Satellite TV Company. There were some “issues” that arose from free installation and timing of a very good promotion. Just three weeks ago I would have been pissed off about something like this. Now, it can happen later. No big deal. I have been waiting to purchase a TV and an inexpensive audio system so that I can have music to listen to. A few snags have been hit and it will have to wait until next week. No worries. I would have had a fit about not having TV in the States. I think I am becoming happy with my blood pressure now…

One thing I think I do miss is Fox News (aside from my Wife and Daughter, of course!) I was a news junkie and now do not really know so much of what is going on in the world…I do peak at the online Fox News each day though. Funny, I do not miss it as much as I thought I would. I also do not get worked up about the politics, taxes, and socialist state of the USA anymore. What happens will happen and I will watch from the sidelines.

Well, I will stop this diatribe. I hope that this finds each and every one of you happy and well. I miss you all and wish the best to all.

Peace,

Dude.

FBO