I have enjoyed my stay here in Watamu, even if it has not been a vacation, never went to the beach, and have pretty much been by myself the entire time. There was a point in my life where I would have dreaded this time spent here…as little as a month ago. I think I am slowly adapting to Kenyan lifestyle, not getting so worked up when things are not “perfect”. Spending five days here without TV, Phone, Music, etc…and being by myself the entire time has actually been rewarding in some respects. Now, I do have my laptop and internet, so I have not been completely shut out of the world. Wish I had better speeds than dial-up and spotty coverage though.
Watamu is an interesting place. Other than the previously mentioned items, there are some cool differences that are not obvious at first. Sure, there is a slower pace of life and an even more “lackadaisical” approach to life. Nobody is in a hurry to do anything here. To a fault. It seems that people spend more time socializing and meandering up and down the road than actually accomplishing anything. It is completely different than the hustle and bustle of the Nairobi area.
The people here are different too. They are smaller in stature. It is not just me noticing it either. The driver who drove me down here is originally from the Western Province of Kenya. These folks are typically either farmers or fishermen, living within a close proximity to Lake Victoria. He had never been to the coast before and has lived in Kenya his entire life. He and I both noticed that the folks here are a lot smaller than the status-quo in Nairobi. The average height for a male I am guessing to be about 5’2” and very thin. This is in direct contrast, to say, a Masai that would average 6’+.
Kenya is very tribal. A local Kenyan can just about tell what tribe someone is from by looking at them. For sure they can tell by their given name. In Nairobi, there is a melting-pot of tribes all mixed together. Here in the coast, it is not so mixed other than the odd Mzungu walking the town. I have no idea what kind of tribe someone is from unless they tell me…and then it does not mean all that much to me. I have read about them but the best I can say is that Kikuyu is the biggest next to the Luo…the president of Kenya is Kikuyu and the prime minister (who caused all the issues in Kenya after their last election) is Luo. I have mentioned Harambee before (Kenyans First). It was initially brought to term by Jomo Kenyatta, the first president of an independent Kenya and generally regarded as a great leader. He wanted to break down the barriers of tribe and unite everyone together for a solid Kenya. Unfortunately, he was not completely successful. Much like if in the States everyone was either Texan or Kansan, or Michigander and not American. Only here, they get all riled up and take machetes to each other. Not all the time, but it is known to occur.
Everything is much more expensive here in Watamu, especially for a white dude. It is readily apparent that anything that requires shipping, is expensive. Other than seafood, locally grown fruit and local building materials, that makes everything expensive. The average pay is a lot lower here than in Nairobi too, which leads to a lot of poverty. The housekeeper here is a good example. He makes a really good wage for this area, about KES 5000 per month…or the equivalent of $64.51 USD. He has a roof over his head provided with the job. That buys food, cell service (everyone in Kenya has a cell phone, no matter how poor) and basic necessities. I almost feel embarrassed when I unload my clothing for four days and realize that I have brought twice as much as this guy owns. It is a different world and a bit humbling all the same.
The housekeeper is another good story. When I got here, I brought the American mentality with me in regards to managing work. Also, it came with the standard “…trust until proven otherwise.” I asked how this works, he informed me and we moved forward. There were a lot of things that needed to be bought in the first day or so and spent probably about $100. Cooking gas, cleaning supplies, food staples, water, and the like. The next day, I was asked if he could have the driver give him a ride to his parents house 7 kilometers away as his Grandfather had just passed away. Sure! My goodness, go and take care of it. He left and came back somewhat late that evening. The next day was the burial, so he asked if he could go to that. Sure, that makes sense. He and the driver left and didn’t get back until 10:00pm that night. The next day, they took off in the car to go to a party. Ok, I need to get over this but I am left at this house with no food or drink (can’t drink the water). I get a call from my friend that owns the place and he absolutely explodes…super-livid. I guess this is the third or fourth time his grandfather has passed away and they know that they are not supposed to use the vehicle for anything…period. The cooking gas I had purchased (and the housekeeper was using) was only for guests that rent the house…not him. He has a separate stove he uses…guess he likes the high-life of living in and utilizing the big house when nobody of importance is around. Basically, this guy took me for who I was…a Mzungu that didn’t know the program and he took me to the cleaners. Everything I bought for him was not supposed to be provided for him…and he ate all of my food and drank all of my water. We had a quick “come to Jesus” meeting immediately after the phone call. Things are in order now.
My friend told me that I cannot treat them as equals or even not micro-manage them as they will always take advantage, almost like he was telling me to treat them like dogs. I was stunned. I was also upset that someone took advantage of me. Well, after the phone call and the “..come to Jesus” meeting, I started treating them like I was told and everything worked out ok…almost better and the workers seemed to be happier? Crazy stuff, I tell you.
I do not think I could get used to treating people that way, but that is the way Mzungu treat all the help. It is sad because if you do not treat them that way, they tend to take advantage of you, more and more. I have heard stories of folks who get nickel and dimed to death by the help after giving a small assistance. Even my housekeeper in Nairobi did it to me on Matatu fare, albeit it is not just a Watamu thing…
Upon retrospect, I have enjoyed my stay, have learned a lot, and am getting better at assimilation to Kenya. I have eaten some fantastic seafood, played with my dog, gotten work done on the house, and am ready to be back home in Nairobi, to civilization. Also, the first time ever, in print, that I consider “home” to be Nairobi…I must be doing ok.
Peace,
Dude.
FBO
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