Three Weeks in Kenya

I sit here looking out the window at palm trees, the peaks of the Ngong Hills, flowers and birds of all kinds everywhere and am growing used to it and at the same time amazed at the differences.

The flora here is freaking incredible. Amazing flowering trees, shrubbery of all colors, trees that are nowhere in the States…what a lot of Africans take for granted stuns me. On the drive to our cottage through the streets of Karen, almost every home has a garden that would be considered “museum quality” anywhere back home. Plus, with the growing climate all year round, it provides for some interesting observations. I remember back home, working at the depot, selling tons of annuals that were to be planted temporarily for color. Take Marigolds, for example. They grow nice and pretty, and then die in the fall, and replanted again next year. Here, they are bushes that form hedges and grow/bloom all year round. I am sure it makes gardening a bit of a challenge over here as one really needs to plan ahead because once it is planted, it is there for good.

The birds here are pretty cool too. The crows that fly here have large, white breasts but all other aspects they are normal crows. I have hawks that fly round here all the time, looking for a small dinner of sorts and have been told can put chicken pieces out and they will feed in the front yard…will have to try that when I get some chicken and my camera ready. Numerous songbirds of all different colors and sizes…all are a sight to see for the first time.

In the short distance from our cottage are the Ngong Hills, made famous by Karen Blixen’s “Out of Africa” (and the movie too). The views of them are incredible as they are unlike any “hills” or “mountains” I am used to seeing. Because this area was formed by volcanic activity and the vast Rift Valley which lies Kilometers from where I sit, the landscape is unequaled anywhere else in the world. The beauty is stunning to me, but not that big a deal to the locals obviously.

Karen, where I live, is a predominately wealthy area, especially by Kenyan standards but by American standards also. It is inhabited by wealthy Kenyans and White “Expats”, it is a very rural suburban area with nice homes on huge lots, usually with a large staff to maintain the gardens, household chores, repairs, and anything else. It is an area where it is safe to walk the streets…although where I am at it is impractical as there is nothing within walking distance from me. The people are nice and always have time to stop and chat a bit. Most everyone here speaks English, albeit they seem to prefer to speak Kiswahili and mix it with English a bit.

There are a couple of shopping centers that are a 5 minute drive from here where one can buy about anything that is a necessity for living. Closer by are roadside shacks that sell the very basics, milk, bread, eggs, fruit, and vegetables. A lot of the locals utilize these shacks but I have not had the opportunity yet. Most everything that I have bought so far is from a store called “Nakumatt”, which is the Kenyan equivalent to Wal-Mart. Nakumatt sells groceries, household goods, electronics, furniture, motorcycles, hardware, tools, appliances, carpet…you name it and they have a bit of it. Some things are very inexpensive here (food), some things are normal prices here (cleaning supplies, soda, meat) and some things are very high (clothing, hangars, electronics, and fuel). One thing worth mentioning, deli lunchmeat is freaking expensive here. Priced per 100 grams (which is not very much), 300 grams will cost you KES1000 which is equivalent to $12.00USD…gotta learn the equivalants!

I have also grown fond of the coffee shops that are nearby. Dormands is one that is close by as well as one called Java House. They serve EXCELLENT coffee, something that Starbucks should look into. Kenyan coffee is regarded as some of the best in the world (we drank it in the States) and they brew mean Tea too. Most of the coffee shops have an outdoor area where folks sit under umbrella tables and enjoy the 75 degree mean temperature, nice breeze, and blazing sunshine. Most of them have internet available, which really makes for a good retreat for me. I have 3G, but it is expensive to use. I never realized how many bytes I used surfing until I paid for each one!!! A luxury I was privileged with in the States and cannot take for granted now.

Talking about the Oasis that I live in is not necessarily a true representation of Nairobi though. Karen lies on the far Southwest edge of the Nairobi area. Once you get out on one of the main roads (Either Langata Road or Ngong Road), things change quickly All of sudden there is mass-chaos. Matatus (small buses) roaring everywhere, pulling in and out of traffic regardless of who is coming or going. Masses of cars driving on roads that have no rules, potholes 10 feet in diameter and a foot deep, passing at anytime, and a communication system utilizing horns, turn-signals, and light flashes that I still do not fully understand. In the States, the car horn is an extension on ones middle finger…only used in anger or frustration. Here, it is used as a communication device. For example, multiple short blasts could mean that I am coming from behind or that I want to merge in right now. Laying on the horn means “…you stupid Matatu, I am coming and get the hell out of my way!” At night, the turn-signal is used to let people see the side of your car as the roads are extremely narrow, dark, and without any lines painted on them.

Anyhow, I digress. Outside of Karen is the true “Nairobi”. A lot of poverty being passed by quickly by the tons of rich folks in their Range Rovers, Toyota Landcruisers, Mercedes, and the like drove by wealthy Kenyans and Expats. The city is very congested and traveling about needs to be planned out carefully. Never during rush-hour and never at night are the two most important rules. For about two hours in the morning and three in the evening, it is like a very chaotic L.A. Freeway experience. Cars sit bumper to bumper, some without brakes, some driven without care, but all sitting like paperweights emitting smog out the tailpipe that would really piss off the tree-huggers in the States. The black-smoke that pours out of vehicles due to zero emissions policies makes a choking/gagging affair that burns ones throat and eyes. Night time driving is not a problem with congestion, but with safety. Carjacking is a serious issue to deal with. They are very common-place and one needs to keep safety in mind at all times. Car doors are locked (even in the daytime), if the windows are down one needs to be careful about leaving an arm out for fear of losing a watch or possibly even the arm. There are thieves roaming the streets in pairs trying to steal stuff out of your vehicle or even hubcaps while stuck in traffic is not uncommon. One lesson is to keep notice of folks walking the streets in a jacket, hat and tennis shoes. They have to be considered thieves as they can discard the coat and hat easily to change appearances and the typical Kenyan does not really wear tennis shoes other than to run. Learning the ropes about safety is paramount prior to me starting to drive never mind the silly bastards drive on the wrong side of the road.

Home safety is a major issue too. My cottage is very safe as it has a road-block with three guards at the entrance off of Bogani Road. From there, the long (quarter-mile or so) driveway has locked gates lining it. I have to pass through two locked gates to get to my front door and there is a guard on duty at these two gates. I have an ace up my sleeve in my German Shepherd Dog, Naomi. Africans are scared shitless of dogs…especially German Shepherds and other similar “trained attack” dogs. All of the staff in our compound gives our yard a wide-berth. Also, carrying Naomi with me in the car…I am told by locals that is almost a guarantee of safety. I am also virtually assured that no Kenyans would even consider entering my yard let alone my cottage…so that made the cost of transporting our animals worth every penny.

Other areas of the city are not near as safe as where I live. Folks that live in town are under constant strain of having a home invasion or having their vehicle stolen, regardless if they are currently driving it or it is sitting in their driveway. There are a lot of beautiful areas of Nairobi that would be less expensive to live in anmd have nicer, larger accommodations. However because of this safety issue, I will not consider living in those areas, just as I would not consider living in Oak Cliff, parts of Fort Worth, or any other crappy area in the States.

Getting used to the slower pace of life has not been difficult at all. If someone tells you they will be there at 2:00pm, you just allow for an hour or so. It is as simple as that. If an appointment does not work out or something goes wrong…no big deal. The hurried hassle of everything in the States is slowly melting away, which is one of the many bonuses of living here. I am actively retraining myself to relax. Sitting here in my cottage on a beautiful Sunday morning, I can sit on my front porch and gaze at natures wonders, play with my dog, type this blog and not be worried about what it is I am supposed to be doing. What happens will happen. I was supposed to have television service installed yesterday by the local Satellite TV Company. There were some “issues” that arose from free installation and timing of a very good promotion. Just three weeks ago I would have been pissed off about something like this. Now, it can happen later. No big deal. I have been waiting to purchase a TV and an inexpensive audio system so that I can have music to listen to. A few snags have been hit and it will have to wait until next week. No worries. I would have had a fit about not having TV in the States. I think I am becoming happy with my blood pressure now…

One thing I think I do miss is Fox News (aside from my Wife and Daughter, of course!) I was a news junkie and now do not really know so much of what is going on in the world…I do peak at the online Fox News each day though. Funny, I do not miss it as much as I thought I would. I also do not get worked up about the politics, taxes, and socialist state of the USA anymore. What happens will happen and I will watch from the sidelines.

Well, I will stop this diatribe. I hope that this finds each and every one of you happy and well. I miss you all and wish the best to all.

Peace,

Dude.

FBO